CoolRunner Oil Pan for Duramax Engines

00:01 Hello guys, welcome back. We got one for you today. So, what we have is another L5P. Customer wants to upgrade his engine oil pan and his filtration system. So, I’m going to get you off my ugly mug here. Flip it around. You can see some real pretty stuff. Not me. I’m not that pretty, but this stuff is. So, hold on.

00:23 so, sitting right here, we have a 22 L5P. She has 41,000 miles. Customer bought this with 4,000 mi on it, and we’re going to dig into it. So, as you heard me say in the first part, we’re going to be doing the Banks engine oil pan. Again,

00:48 you got to love these guys. The the product is absolutely awesome. Everything comes in the kit. We got the pan. We’ve got the threebond. They even give you a gun to put your three bond on. Get rid of that long stupid bolt. That makes no sense to me. You’ve got your drain plug.

01:09 They are magnetic. As you can see on the side of the pen, you’ll see that they even give you a plug for that. And then all of your fasteners to hold the pan on. Now, along with this system, we’re also going to be doing the insane diesel oil filtration system. This is

01:27 the X2. The progressive filter goes from 10 micron down to one micron. We’re also going to be replacing the factory filter at the same time. Everything comes in the kit. This is a frame mount kit because we’re also going to mount that down on the frame next to the pan. You

01:43 guys are going to see all of that once we get into it. So stick with me for a few, give you a few tips, tricks, whatever I find else on the way. Give you a couple install shots and then get this one wrapped up so that we can get it out to you guys and for your viewing pleasure, whatever. Anyway,

02:01 stay tuned. All right, so before we get started on this, I do want to talk about one thing. Safety. Safety for your hands. In particular, on this little segment here, my hands get a beating. And you see I’ve got bruises in my nail beds and that’s always common. It’s

02:18 always there. And uh they’re just beat up from years and years and years of doing this. Without proper safety gear though, my hands would look way way worse. So what we have here, we have just a basic rubber glove that you can wear help protect your hands from exposure to

02:37 chemicals, all that good stuff. Now, when we’re getting into just doing straight up work where you don’t need to have precision finger sensitivity, we also have these rubber gloves right here, which are quite a bit thicker, a lot more durable. Of course, these ones you’ll go

02:56 through two, three, four pairs a day. These ones right here, you’re going to be able to use these over and over and over, whether you’re changing oil in your garage or changing tires, whatever. So, the company that I like to work with is this company called KGO. They have

03:13 all different kinds of sizes. They have all kinds of different other kinds of safety equipment other than just gloves. But head on over to their site at KGO and you can get a discount by using the discount code that we’re going to provide. And yeah, take care of your

03:29 hands, guys. Okay, so first steps in getting the oil pan off, of course, is to drain the oil. Uh, it’s been draining for about 40 minutes. So, I’m going to put the plug back in it and start undoing the retaining clamps or retaining brackets for trans lines. Get them out of the way. This crossmember

03:46 right here has to come out of the way. And then we’ll start pulling all of the bolts for the oil pan itself. We’re also going to have to drop down the front differential on the passenger side. Hope that that gives us enough room. If not, we’ll have to drop it down off of the driver side a little

04:03 bit as well. Want to make sure that we get plenty of clearance so that when we go back together with the new pan, we don’t wipe any of the silicone off of it as we’re installing it. We want to make sure it stays where it’s supposed to and gives us a good seal when we do finally

04:18 bolt up the new pan. So, I’m going to go ahead and get some stuff taken off and we’ll give you another video as we continue so you can see pretty close to a step by step without me having to do like a time lapse video. Okay, so we get this to this point right here. We’ve got

04:39 these two bolts for the front differential. Two nuts taken off. Drop the front differential down. We’ve got the transmission lines disconnected from their mounting points. I do not disconnect from the side of the transmission. I don’t believe that is necessary. I’ve been able to do it without it.

04:58 And now you get all 26 bolts out of the engine oil pan. Now in the kit, Banks gives a separator piece looks like this so that you can start breaking the seal of that pan. That’s for the guy who is doing this, you know, in his garage, doesn’t have a whole bunch of money tied up in tools,

05:20 but wants to try and do this himself. I have these long little hammerable because they have a steel end on them. Let me show you another one. I’ve got a pack of three. These ones are from Mechco. Got a steel plate on there. So, you can tap these with a hammer. We get a short straight,

05:38 a short bendy, and a long straight. That’s what’s in there right now. Now you want to start working it by tapping on the end of it underneath the flange to start separating the pan, the lower pan from the upper pan. Once you get that started to work, then you can

05:54 start actually pulling down on the pan with your hands. You got to use a pry bar, whatever. You got to make sure that you do not mess up the surface of your upper pan because of course that is staying on the vehicle and the lower pan is going away and you don’t want to have

06:11 any cracks, breaks or severe scar marks on that. That’s going to prevent anything from stealing. Now talking about breaking, if you are not careful, you can break that upper pan in this process. So you got to be slow and meticulous to get this pan off of here. Now, these are a one-time use. You will

06:31 absolutely destroy this pan in the process of getting it off. So, if you ever want to return back to stock, you need to go back to GM and buy another brand new pan. Anyway, I’m going to get that off there. Then, we’ll show you the ceiling surface. Then, we got to clean

06:45 up and get ready for installation of the new pan. All right. So, now that you get the oil pan off, you can see there is a ton of the three bond that they use from the factory holding that thing on there. Now, you got to get that off. And you got to get that surface perfectly clean,

06:59 free of all silicone. You can’t just leave a layer on there. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a leak at some point. So, to do that, you can use razor blades. I have a longer handled razor blade right here. And I’ve got a shorter handled one right here. And you can also use a wire brush

07:17 to help get the final bits off. I don’t recommend using any kind of a rotary tool with a wire brush on it or even a scuff pad because you cannot damage or alter the surface of that lower oil pan. Need to keep it as intact as possible. So, take your time, be very careful, get

07:38 it totally clean, and then we can start going back together with the new pan, which I will show you after I get this clean how clean you can actually get it without using any kind of a power tool. Well, stick with me. All righty. Now that we got these surfaces clean, yes,

07:53 you’ll notice I have rags stuffed up in there. That’s to keep oil from dripping on my head while I’m preparing the surface and getting it ready. So, we’ve got the rags. Do not forget to take them out. You’ll have a very, very bad day. From this point right here though, before I put glue

08:10 down on that new trans that engine oil pan and put it up there, I want to test fit to make sure that nothing is going to be in my way like those transmission lines right there so that I get a nice clean install. So if I have to end up putting like a bungee cord or something to hold

08:28 those out of the way a little bit more, then so be it. Just make sure you dry fit it first. run through the process of how you are going to put that pan in before you put the pan in and that will make everything so much easier for you. So, there we go. Let me I’m going to I’m

08:46 not going to bore you with video of dry fitting the pan, but I’m going to dry fit the pan, see if I need to adjust any of the trans lines, all that good stuff. And then I’ll get the glue laid, show you a video there, and then I’ll get the pan installed. Okay, so we’ve wiped down our surface

09:05 with a brake cleaner. Make sure it’s perfectly clean. Now, we’re going to use the bank supplied cocking gun and the three bond to put this on. So, what you want to do is take your utility knife and cut that off. Be careful. Don’t need nobody splitting their fingers open.

09:30 Then you’re going to screw it on just like this. Now, this is staggered so you can get a thicker or a thinner bead on it. I cut mine about like that and put it into a 45. Then you’re going to load it up into the caulking gun and start working it down. Now, this stuff again, it’s pretty

10:00 bulletproof, so you got to be pretty careful. And you don’t want a really thick bead. You don’t need a lot. You don’t want a lot of squish out. Start putting it in inboard of the bolt holes all the way around. Try and maintain uniformity and consistency throughout your bead

10:22 as you’re laying this down. Don’t go too fast. Don’t go too slow. Make sure you try and keep it away from the edges a little bit except for where you’re coming around your bolt holes. And don’t be afraid to stop and change positions. You can rotate your tube so that you get the right angle.

11:38 Now, while you’re doing this, keep in mind you got to mate this up. So, what I do is just prior to laying down the three bond, I’ve already cleaned off the surface underneath the truck. Use some brake clean. Leave some clean rags down there so that you can wipe it down again just

12:02 before you pop this thing on there. Okay, we’ve already gone through our dry fit. So now this is ready to install. You kind of got to act quick. This stuff starts curing the second it hits oxygen. So I’ll show you some more video after we get it on. All righty, guys. So, we

12:20 got the lovely Banks oil pan installed, and now we’re going to move on to installing the Insane Diesel oil filter bypass. Now, what I’ve already done is pulled out the plug right here in the side of the oil filter housing. It is a 20 mm by 1.5 thread pitch that takes 10

12:35 mm Allen drive to get it out. I have installed the 20 mm by 1.5 to A&6 fitting in. And then I installed the elbow walnut just to keep that little bugger from dripping on me the whole time while I go through the rest of this install. So what I am doing now is getting ready to figure out exactly

12:54 where I’m going to mount and drill for the oil filter bypass right here on the side of the frame rail. And then we’ll get the frame tapped so that when I install it, I can loctite the bolts in. That thing will never come loose unless you actually put a wrench on it. and

13:12 then we’ll start running our hoses. So stay tuned for a few more while I get that done. All righty, guys. Everything is buttoned up. Crossmember back in. Oil pan is on. All of the transcooler lines are fastened back down where they’re supposed to go. And now we have

13:29 the supply port in for the insane diesel oil filter bypass and the return into the bank’s oil pan. Coming down to a frame mount insane oil filter. Nice clean install. Short lines. Now I want to bring up to a little point here on the feed line. So coming from your

13:50 supply port into the end of the filter, it’s important to keep that as short as possible. That fact is there because of the ability for the engine to not run at zero pressure for as least amount of time possible when we do a first startup. After the first startup, that

14:11 line will remain full. So, moving forward with further oil changes, you can not have to worry so much about a a dry startup. A good point to make is if you can remote start the starter and crank this thing over for a few without actually starting the vehicle, it will

14:31 help prime the system. Plus, we also did replace the factory filter. And we’re going to be putting the Lorenzo oil in. So, hold on just a second and I’ll show you and talk about the Lorenzo oil for just a second. Okay, so factory on this is 10 quarts. We added a two quart capacity upgrade

14:49 with the banks oil pen and then the insane diesel oil filter bypass takes another quart. So there’s 13 quarts. Now let’s talk about the Lorenzo oil. It’s a full synthetic heavy duty and has a nano tungsten dulfide additive which adheres to the metal surfaces and also provides a sacrificial layer to

15:13 bearing surfaces and surfaces inside of the engine that you know come in contact with other surfaces. So, what this means is this will help protect all of the wear points inside of the engine. Whether it’s push rods, lifters, rockers, main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings,

15:35 all of that inside. This is going to help protect those systems and those surfaces from wear. It also remember also provides a sacrificial layer so that as wear is common with all engines. This will help cut down on wear of the materials that are in place such as bearing material. Instead, it will

15:58 provide itself its own sacrificial layer. So anyway, we are going to get 13 quarts poured back in this bad boy and then we’ll fire it up. make sure that we have no leaks, everything is good and honky dory and satisfied. And we’re going to call that a wrap for this one.

16:20 And as this one is wrapping up, I do want to take this time to thank each and every one of you. The like, the share, the comment, all of that stuff. Now, I also want to go back and touch base really quick on all the stuff that I’ve been saying about the Cumins engines and

16:35 the problems that we’re finding with the the 19 and newers. I also want to address with this truck. This thing also has a tick internal of the engine has taken to a dealer and the dealer has said that that’s normal. It isn’t normal, guys. Don’t ever be satisfied with with an answer from a

16:53 dealer of, “Oh, that ticking noise coming from your engine is normal. It’s not normal. They just don’t know what it is yet.” I’m going to dig into this one a lot further and find out what we can find out about this ticking noise. At some point in the future, I will give

17:08 you L5P owners an update. Right now, I don’t have one, but I want to get this video out to you. So, anyway, we’re going to go ahead and uh wrap this up. Again, like, comment, and share, and share to everybody because everybody needs to understand what they’re getting

17:26 into. Again, especially with Cumins since I am a Cumins mechanic, a certified Cumins mechanic. work on everything of course as you’ve seen but specifically because of at the dealer we deal with Cumins on a daily basis. We need everybody to understand what’s going on with these engines and

17:48 get it to through to the manufacturers that we’re not going to be satisfied with a do not fix at this point or we don’t know what it is or it’s common. None of that bull crap. They need to be held accountable for the these actions. They need to be held accountable for

18:05 building these vehicles specifically to fail so that they have to sell you another one in three, four years while you still have three, four, five years left on your loan. Stupid. But whatever. We need to get this out to everybody. I need everybody to share this with their

18:22 friends that have diesels and are sick and tired of the manufacturers pulling the crap that they’re pulling. We need to get it out there, guys. So, anyway, thanks again. We’ll talk to you again later.