97737 Monster-Ram Intake System w/fuel line-2019-23 RAM 6.7L Cummins

Part #s 42799, 42799-PC, 42799-B

Banks Ram-Air® Intake System 2019-2023 RAM 2500/3500 6.7L Cummins

Does Not Fit Cab & Chassis

Please read through the following instructions thoroughly before starting your installation. If you have any questions please visit our Support Page.

Note, The Monster-Ram will not fit Cab and Chassis Ram trucks

Monster-Ram w/Intake Plate Install Video

Bill of Materials for the 2019+ Banks Monster-Ram kit
2019+ Ram Monster-Ram Diagram
CAD diagram of the parts included in 2007-2018 Banks Monster-Ram kits
07-18 Monster-Ram Diagram

In effort to make sure you have the right kit for your model year. Visually check which fuel line is included in your kit before starting installation.

List of Tools used during this install

Important Notes:


Coil heater preparation: Remove the top hex nut from the threaded post. You will replace the nut with the supplied flange nut as shown. The lower nut must not be removed from the heater coil. The lower nut must remain 1/8″ above the coil heater body.

Take care when installing OEM heater wire ring terminal, it must be sandwiched between the upper and lower nut. If the lower nut is too low, the ring terminal could contact the body of the coil and will short out.

When tightening the nut, it is very important to use a 10mm wrench or socket on the top nut and an 8mm open-end wrench on the bottom nut to prevent the threaded post from rotating. If the threaded post rotates, it can break the ceramic insulation it’s surrounded by.

If the OEM heater wire touches other metal components, an open short will occur.

Copper washer: All kits now ship with a copper crush washer. Place this washer between the coil heater before screwing it into the Monster-Ram.

OEM Harness and Sensor Removal

Disconnect your battery

1. Disconnect Batteries

Place a rag around each of the negative battery cable ends; this will prevent them from touching the battery again and arcing during the install as you work.

Remove Engine Cover

2. Remove Engine Cover

Remove engine beauty cover. Use an 8mm deep socket to remove the four bolts holding the cover down.

Remove Dipstick

3. Remove Dipstick

The Dipstick needs to be removed for the cover to come off.

Re install Dip Stick

4. Reinsert Dipstick

Remove Cable Tie Downs

5. Remove Cable Tie Downs

Use a panel popper tool or pliers

Note: The 2 bolts with studs extending up past the head are to be located on the left rear of the cover.

Remove cable ties from studs

6. Remove Cable Tie Downs

Remove 8 Engine Cover Bolts

7. Remove Engine Cover Bolts

There are 8 bolts holding on the cover. A wobble extension and placing the socket on the bolts first helps.

Remove Oil Cap

8. Remove Oil Fill Cap

Cover Filler Neck With Rag

9. Place Rag Over Filler Neck

10. Remove Bolts Holding Cross Over Tube Bracket

This bracket will not be reused.

Remove rag and set cover back down

11. Remove Rag & Set Down Cover

Re install oil cap

12. Install Oil Filler Cap

Remove Bolt Under EGR Tube

13. Remove Bolt Under Center of EGR Crossover Tube

Remove EGR P-Clamp

14. Remove & Dispose EGR Tube P-Clamp

Tighten engine cover bolts

15. Reinstall 8 Engine Cover Bolts – Studs in Rear Passenger Side

Slide the pink lock

16. Unlock Temp Sensor Plug From EGR Crossover

Use a flat-blade screwdriver or pry tool to push the slide-lock.

Press down the clip to remove it

17. Remove Temp Sensor by Pinching It

Unclip this wire clip for extra clearance.

View of the 2019+ Rear Harness

18. Remove EGR Valve Plug – Located On Back of EGR Valve

Slide lever back until it clicks, then separate.

EGR Tube Removal

Loosen EGR clamp Driver Side

19. Loosen EGR Clamp Driver’s Side

Use a small flat blade to release the clip.

Flip EGR Clamp Over

20. Flip EGR Clamp Upside Down for Easy Access Later

Do not remove the clamp yet.

Loosen Passenger Side EGR

21. Loosen EGR Clamp Passenger Side

Do not remove this clamp yet (A gasket will slip out and fall if you do)

Release driver side EGR Clamp

22. Release Driver side EGR Clamp

Keep a hand under the clamp incase the gasket comes loose.

Remove conical EGR Gasket

23. Release Clamp & Remove Gasket

Catch the gasket and put aside for later, this will be used again.

Apply pressure and catch gasket

24. Release Passenger Side EGR Clamp

Apply pressure to keep the gasket in place and Keep your hand under the passenger side clamp to prevent the flat EGR gasket from falling into the engine bay.

Catch EGR Gasket

25. Catch EGR Gasket From Falling

Intake Elbow Removal

Remove throttle shield

26. Remove Throttle Heat Shield

Cut cable tie

27. Cut Dip Stick Tube Zip Ties

Free up the thick 12V wire for the grid heater.

Remove 12V P Clamp

28. Remove 12V Harness P-Clamp

Remove nut and ring terminal

29. Remove Heater cable from Terminal

Relocate the wire out of the way once the free.

Remove dip stick bracket

30. Remove Dipstick Tube Bracket

Lift Dipstick Tube Slightly

31. Bend Tube Up Slightly

The Monster-Ram is slightly taller than the factory Intake Elbow; you’ll fine-tune this bend after the Monster-Ram is installed.

Loosen Clamp On Throttle

32. Loosen Boost Tube Clamp

This does not have to be fully removed, just release tension on the hose

loosen grip around throttle hose

33. Pry Boost Tube Hose Off Throttle Body

The hose may feel stuck or glued to the throttle body; carefully walk a panel popper tool around the tube to loosen its grip on the throttle body. This will make removal later on easier.

Use panel popper tool to remove this wire tie

34. Remove Cable Tie Back of Elbow & Unplug MAP sensor

Remove forward PCV Hose

35. Remove Forward PCV Hose

Remove 6 bolts from elbow

36. Remove 6 Bolts on Elbow

37. Lean Elbow Toward You & Dislodge Boost Tube

Remove throttle control plug

38. Remove Throttle Control Plug

Now that the elbow has been twisted toward you, you can easily reach this plug.

Remove throttle control plug

Slide tab over to remove the plug, Depress the end, and pull to remove the plug.

Place rag over boost tube

39. Place Rag & Clamp Over Boost Tube

Factory Heater Plate Removal

Remove the first passenger side plug

40. Disconnect First Passenger Side Plug

This plug has a pink slide lock

40a. Disconnect First Passenger Side Plug

Now The Second Passenger Side Plug

41. Disconnect Second Passenger Side Plug

Slide Pink lock to release clip

Slide Lock In

Depress clip from the top

Depress button to release clip

Remove 3rd rd plug location

42. Disconnect Third Passenger Side Plug

Slide pink clip and depress the rear of the 3rd plug.

42a. Disconnect Third Passenger Side Plug

Rear Blue Injector Plug

43. Disconnect Flat Blue Driver Side Plug

Depress spring clip, then pull out the plug

43a. Press in the clip with a flat tool, and pull up.

rotate white lever, then pull

44. Disconnect Large Driver Side Engine Harness

Depress clip and fully rotate the white lock, then pull to disengage. May need some force due to dust, grime, etc.

Release cable tie from Firewall

Release cable tie

Slide pink lock to side, depress, and remove

45. Remove Rear Driver Side Plug

Remove rear injector plug

46. Remove Rear Driver Side Flat Blue Plug

Use pry tool and remove the rear PCV hose

47. Remove Rear PCV Hose

48. Remove Rubber Isolator

Remove wire harness from Driverside studs

49. Remove Cable Ties from Driver Side Studs

Remove Dipstick Stud

50. Remove Dipstick Tube Stud

Bungee Dipstick out of way

51. Bungee Cord The Dipstick Tube

52. Place Rag Over Intake

53. Paint Marker Line Across Threaded Insert & Cylinder Head

This will allow you to see if the threaded inserts into the head start to turn when loosening the fuel lines. You do not want the insert to spin loose, as this will cause a fuel leak.

54. Remove Fuel Lines

If the inserts in the head start to move, use an open ended wrench to hold them inlace.

55. Install Dust Covers

Insert the covers, open end facing out. The caps should fit (inside) each blocked port.

Loosen and rotate No.6 fuel line

56. Loosen #6 Fuel Line & Rotate Out of Way

Do not fully remove the rear fuel rail. It is difficult to reach and only needs to be moved out of the way as shown.

57. Loosen High Pressure Fuel Feed Line

58. Swivel Back High Pressure Fuel Feed Line

59. Rear Sensor Removal

Locate the rear thermocouple. Remove its black plastic cover by prying up & away from the sensor body.

Once the cap is removed, press the small red locking tab in, then unplug the sensor.

60. Loosen Rear Fuel Line

Note: There is a washer between the fuel rail and fuel line. Take care not to loose it when removing the banjo bolt.

Carefully remove the banjo bolt from the fitting.

The hard line does not have to be fully removed. Carefully pry the fuel line up just a hair, and slide the washer out with a screw driver.

Don’t lose this washer.

61a. Remove Fuel Rail Bolts

Place Rag At Fuel Rail End

61b. Place Rag At The Rear of Fuel Rail

There will still be fuel in the rail, and it’ll leak out in the next step if you don’t do this.

62. Bungee Fuel Rail

Be sure that rag stays at the rear of the fuel rail, it will leak when you tilt it back.

Remove Factory Grid Heater

63. Remove Factory Grid Heater

Clean inside of manifold carefully

64. Clean Manifold Surface

Take care not to scratch the surface, and vacuum out any debris that fall into the manifold.

A rag with some solvent can clean up the finer material.

Spray Manifold Plate Gasket

65. Spray Adhesive to Gasket (Banks Side)

Banks side should have the glue

Side that says Banks, should be the side with the adhesive. Let it sit for about 3 min for the glue to tack up.

Stick gasket to flat side

66. Align Gasket & Stick On

Line up all of the bolt holes, and stick the gasket to the flat side of the billet plate.

Transfer Temp Sensor

67. Transfer Temp Sensor To Banks Plate

Take care when removing the sensor and give it a clean with some scotch brite.

Don’t over-tighten the sensor into the billet plate as the aluminum is softer than the steel threads on the sensor. It will bottom out so you’ll know when to stop.

Installation of Monster-Ram

Remove EGR Valve

68. Remove EGR Valve

Remove Throttle

69. Remove Throttle Body

The throttle will be stuck onto the gasket, so use a rubber mallet to help tap it free from the elbow.

Locate and transfer MAP sensor

70. Remove & Transfer MAP Sensor

Remove and transfer forward stud

71. Remove & Transfer Elbow Stud

Clean EGR valve

72. Clean EGR Gasket Surface

Take care not to nick the surface. Do the same for the throttle body gasket mating surface.

Place Gaskets

73. Place New EGR Gaskets On Monster-Ram

Fasten EGR Bolts

74. Fasten EGR Bolts

Apply a small amount of medium strength

Align Throttle Body

75. Align Throttle Body Gasket

Bolt throttle body to Monster-Ram

76. Fasten Throttle Body to Monster-Ram

The 1/8” NPT ports shall only be used for installing sensors for measuring air temperature, pressure, or flow. Sensors installed to these ports shall have a fitting of 1/8” NPT and shall not be connected to the vehicle’s electronic control units. In addition, factory sensors that come equipped on the vehicle shall not be disconnected and shall not be relocated to the ports. The ports, when not used, shall be closed off with the supplied plugs.

Install NPT Plugs

77. Install Sensor Plugs

Inspect the threaded holes, and be sure there is no powder coat in the holes.

Install Thermocouple  Plug

78. Install Rear Thermocouple Plug

Install MAP sensor

79. Install MAP Sensor

Now is a good time to clean the sensor with some MAF/MAP cleaner spray.

Glue the Horn Gasket

80. Spray Gasket With Adhesive

Thread Lock All Bolts

80. Place Washers On The Hex Cap Screws, Then Apply Some Blue Threadlocker As You Install Them

81. Use a Stock Bolt to Hold Billet Plate in Place

Place 4 fuel rail standoffs

82. Place Fuel Rail Standoffs

83. Release Bungee Cord. Place Fuel Rail & Studs in Place

84. Tighten Fuel Rail

Torque Bolts to 18-20 ft/lbs

85. Re-Install Temp Sensor. Hand Tighten Washer & Banjo Bolt

Tighten Fuel Rail Bolts

86. Tighten Fuel Lines to 30 ft/lbs

87. Tighten Fuel Feed Line To 30 ft/lb

Install Temp Sensor Harness Extension

88. Connect Temp Sensor Extension Harness.

Be sure to lock the plug once connected.

Remove one stud for a moment

89. Remove Middle Right Stud For Dipstick Tube

Install Dipstick Bracket

Slide Dipstick Bracket Over & Reinstall Stud

Replace Engine Harness On Studs

90. Push Engine Harness Cable Ties Back Onto Studs

Install Foam Isolator

91. Put Rubber Isolator Back Into Place

Route Rear PCV House Under Dip Stick

92. Run Rear PCV Hose Under Dipstick Tube

Connect PCV Hose

93. Connect Rear PCV Hose Back To Valve Cover

Plug in Rear Blue Plug

94. Connect Rear Flat Blue Injector Plug

Plug in Rear White Plug

95. Connect Rear White Plug

Be sure to slide the pink lock back into position.

Route Engine Harness Under and Over

96. Route Engine Harness Under Dipstick & Around Valve Cover

Engine Plug 1

96a. Plug In 3 Remaining Plugs

Engine Plug 2
Engine Plug 3
Re attach cables on studs

97. Push Cable Ties Onto Studs

Connect Engine Main Harness, lock the plug by rotating

98. Reconnect Engine Harness Connector

Don't connect forward blue plug yet

99. Do Not Connect Front Blue Injector Plug Yet

Install Boost Tube Clamp

100. Remove Rag From Boost Tube, Put Clamp Back On

Install Monster-Ram

101. Insert Monster Ram Into Boost Tube

Thread in a long bolt to get it lined up

102. Put Long Bolt Into Front Corner by Hand

This will help hold the Monster-Ram inlace. Then do the same for the long bolt on the backside. Followed by the two smaller bolts.

Use magnet for center bolts

103. Use Telescoping Magnet to Start Bolts in the Middle of the Monster-Ram

This is useful for the small bolt in the middle, which is hard to reach, and mandatory for the one that goes through the top coil heater hole. Use Medium-strength liquid thread locker!

Use Hex key

Use Hex Key Extension to Tighten Bolt

Torque to 20 ft/lbs

Tighten All 6 Bolts 18-20 ft/lbs

Start with the bolt that’s inside the Monster-Ram, then work in a cross pattern to torque to spec.

104. Slide Copper Washer Onto Heater Coil.

Hand Tighten Heater Coil

105. Tighten Coil Heater By Hand

Should be tight, but don’t over do it.

106. Install Dipstick Tube Bracket

Connect forward blue injector clip

107. Now Install Forward Flat Blue Injector Plug

Be sure it clicks.

Press hose on quarter of inch, then use pry tool to assist

108. Connect Forward PCV Hose to Valve Cover

This is a tight fit, but doable. Wiggle the rubber hose on the nipple a quarter inch, then use a pry tool as a lever to help slide it on.

Plug in rear MAP sensor

109. Plug In MAP Sensor (Rear of Monster-Ram)

Secure the slide lock back into position.

Connect Throttle Plug

110. Plug In Throttle Plug

Secure the slide lock back into position.

Tighten Up Boost Tube Clamp

111. Tighten Boost Tube Clamp

Remove P Clamp on 12V Lead Near Front of Vehicle

112. Remove & Discard 12v Heater Cable P-Clamp

Detail on 12V Extension

113. Assemble Heater Cable Extension Bracket

2019+ Rams have a permanently attached nut to the OEM heater harness.

Use the supplied adapter and M8 bolt to adapt your 2019+ OEM heater harness. The adapter should be oriented so the bolt is facing up with the nut on top. Use thread locker.

Heat shrink the

114. Apply Heat Shrink

The heat shrink must cover the bolted area to prevent any accidental metal-to-metal content. Leave only the new bolt hole exposed.

This is to prevent the possibility of the 12V wire touching any part of the body and causing a short. The heat shrink is thick and will take a moment to start shrinking.

Place heater cable on stud

115. Place Heater Cable Onto Threaded Post

The head of the M6 Bolt you just covered needs to face down.

Tighten stud with wrench

116. Use Two Wrenches to Hold the Bottom Nut From Turning

Be sure to support the lower nut with an open head wrench. You don’t want to break the stud off while tightening the top nut.

Be sure there's gap on stud

117. Be Sure Lower Bolt Is Away From Metal

No part of the 12V cable can touch the body of the coil heater. Otherwise it will arc, melt, and fail.

Flat Washer On Passenger

118. Flat Washer Goes On Passenger Side of EGR Tube

Clamp down union hand tight

119. Put Clamp Over Union & Hand Tighten

Conical Gasket on EGR Valve Side

120. Conical Gasket Goes On Driver Side of EGR Tube

Tighten EGR Valve Side Clamp

121. Tighten Driver Side Clamp

Tighten EGR Cooler Side

122. Tighten Passenger Side Clamp

Remove two front EGR bolts for Heat Shield

123. Loosen Front Bolts on EGR for Cover

Tighten heat shield front bolts

124. Install EGR Heat Shield and Tighten Bolts

Place spacer and screw

125. Place Rear Heatshield Spacer & Screw

Use a drop of thread locker on the screw to prevent it from vibrating out.

Tighten Torx Screw with some blue thread locker

126. Tighten Torx Head Screw

Mount Throttle Heat Shield

127. Install Throttle Heat Shield Bolt and Nuts

128. Connect Temp Sensor Extension

129. Connect Rear EGR Extension & Harness

Reconnect batteries

130. Reconnect Batteries

Note about first start

131. First Start May Take 1-2min of engine turnover.

This is normal. The fuel system, rail, and lines need to re-pressurize.


For smog check purposes, affix the CARB E.O. Label on a visible location under the hood. Banks recommends using the radiator shroud location.