42797, 42797-PC, 42797-B, 42798, 42798-PC, 42798-B
Monster-Ram® Air Intake 2007.5-2018 RAM 2500/3500 6.7L Cummins
Note: Individual components vary based on year.
Please read through the following instructions thoroughly before starting your installation. If you have any questions please visit our Support Page.
Monster-Ram w/Intake Plate Install Video
2007-2012 Monster-Ram kit contains 2 harness extensions
2013-2018 Monster-Ram kit contains 3 harness extensions
If using the High-Flow Heater Coil, the lower locking nut must not be removed from the heater coil. Take care when installing OEM heater wire ring terminal, it must be sandwiched between upper and lower nut.
When tightening the nut, it is very important to use a 10mm wrench or socket on the top nut and an 8mm open-end wrench on the bottom nut to prevent the threaded post from rotating. If the threaded post rotates, it can break the ceramic it’s surrounded by.
The threaded terminal is insulated, if the OEM heater wire touches other metal components, an open short will occur.
OEM Harness and Sensor Removal
1. Disconnect Batteries
Place a rag around each of the negative battery cable ends; this will prevent them from touching the battery again and arcing during the install as you work.
2. Remove Engine Cover
Remove engine beauty cover. Use an 8mm deep socket to remove the four bolts holding the cover down.
3. Remove Dipstick
The dipstick needs to be removed for the cover to come off.
4. Remove Engine cover, Reinsert Dipstick
5. Remove Cable Tie Downs
Use a panel popper tool or pliers
Note: The 2 bolts with studs extending up past the head are to be located on the left rear of the cover.
6. Remove Cable Tie Downs
7. Remove Engine Cover Bolts
There are 8 bolts holding on the cover. A wobble extension and placing the socket on the bolts first helps.
8. Remove Oil Fill Cap
9. Place Rag Over Filler Neck
10. Remove Bolts Holding Cross Over Tube Bracket
This bracket will not be reused.
11. Remove Rag, Set Down Cover
12. Install Oil Filler Cap
13. Remove Bolt Under Center of EGR Crossover Tube
14. Remove and Dispose EGR Tube P-Clamp
15. Reinstall 8 Engine Cover Bolts – Studs in Rear Passenger Side
16. Unlock Temp Sensor Plug From EGR Crossover
Use a flat-blade screwdriver or pry tool to push the slide-lock.
17. Remove Temp Sensor by Pinching It
Unclip this wire clip for extra clearance.
18. Remove EGR Valve Plug
Press the locking tab, press the plug forward to release tension, then pull back to remove.
19. Remove EGR harness cable tie
EGR Tube Removal
20. Loosen EGR Clamp Driver’s Side
Use a small flat blade to release the clip.
21. Flip EGR Clamp Upside Down for Easy Access Later
Do not remove the clamp yet.
22. Loosen EGR Clamp Passenger Side
Do not remove this clamp yet (A gasket will slip out and fall if you do)
23. Release Driver side EGR Clamp
Keep a hand under the clamp in case the gasket comes loose.
24. Release Clamp and Remove Gasket
Catch the gasket and put it aside for later, this will be used again.
25. Release Passenger Side EGR Clamp
Apply pressure to keep the gasket in place and Keep your hand under the passenger side clamp to prevent the flat EGR gasket from falling into the engine bay.
26. Catch EGR Gasket From Falling
Intake Elbow Removal
27. Remove Throttle Heat Shield
28. Cut Dipstick Tube Zip Ties
Free up the thick 12V wire for the grid heater.
29. Remove 12V Harness P-Clamp
30. Remove Heater cable from Terminal
Relocate the wire out of the way once the free.
31. Remove Dipstick Tube Bracket
32. Bend Tube Up Slightly
The Monster-Ram is slightly taller than the factory Intake Elbow; you’ll fine-tune this bend after the Monster-Ram is installed.
33. Loosen Boost Tube Clamp
This does not have to be fully removed, just release tension on the hose
34. Pry Boost Tube Hose Off Throttle Body
The hose may feel stuck or glued to the throttle body; carefully walk a panel popper tool around the tube to loosen its grip on the throttle body. This will make removal later on easier.
35. Remove Cable Tie Back of Elbow & Unplug MAP sensor
36. Remove Forward PCV Hose
37. Remove 6 Bolts on Elbow
38. Lean Elbow Toward You & Dislodge Boost Tube
39. Remove Throttle Control Plug
Now that the elbow has been leaned forward, you can easily reach this plug.
Slide tab over and depress the end to remove the plug.
40. Place Rag & Clamp Over Boost Tube
Factory Heater Plate Removal
41. Locate First Passenger Side Plug
41a. Slide the pink locking tab over, then pull to release
42. Locate Second Passenger Side Plug
Slide Lock In
Depress button to release clip
43. Locate Third Passenger Side Plug
43a. Disconnect Third Passenger Side Plug
44. Locate Flat Blue Driver Side Plug
44a. Press in the clip with a flat tool, and pull up.
45. Disconnect Large Driver Side Engine Harness
Depress clip and fully rotate the white lock, then pull to disengage. May need some force due to dust, grime, etc.
Release cable tie
46. Remove Rear Driver Side Plug
47. Remove Rear Driver Side Flat Blue Plug
48. Remove Rear PCV Hose
49. Remove Rubber Isolator
50. Remove Cable Ties from Driver Side Studs
51. Remove Dipstick Tube Stud
52. Bungee Cord The Dipstick Tube
53. Remove Manifold Temp Sensor Plug
54. Place Rag Over Intake
55. Paint Marker Line Across Threaded Insert & Cylinder Head
This will allow you to see if the threaded inserts into the head start to turn when loosening the fuel lines. You do not want the insert to spin loose, as this will cause a fuel leak.
56. Remove Fuel Lines
If the inserts in the head start to move, use an open ended wrench to hold them inlace.
57. Install Dust Covers
Insert the covers, open end facing out. The caps should fit (inside) each blocked port.
58. Loosen #6 Fuel Line & Rotate Out of Way
Do not fully remove the rear fuel rail. It is difficult to reach and only needs to be moved out of the way as shown.
59. Loosen High Pressure Fuel Feed Line
Both the upper and lower ends.
59a. Swivel Back High Pressure Fuel Feed Line
60. Remove Banjo Bolt
Take care not to loose the washer between the fuel rail & banjo bolt.
61. Remove Fuel Rail Bolts
61a. Place Rag At The Rear of Fuel Rail
There will still be fuel in the rail, and it’ll leak out in the next step if you don’t do this.
62. Bungee Fuel Rail
Be sure that rag stays at the rear of the fuel rail, it will leak when you tilt it back.
63. Remove Factory Grid Heater
64. Clean Manifold Surface
Take care not to scratch the surface, and vacuum out any debris that fall into the manifold.
A rag with some solvent can clean up the finer material.
65. Spray Adhesive to Gasket (Banks Side)
Side that says Banks, should be the side with the adhesive. Let it sit for about 3 min for the glue to tack up.
66. Align Gasket & Stick On
Line up all of the bolt holes, and stick the gasket to the flat side of the billet plate.
67. Transfer Temp Sensor To Banks Plate
Take care when removing the sensor and give it a clean with some scotch brite.
Don’t over-tighten the sensor into the billet plate as the aluminum is softer than the steel threads on the sensor. It will bottom out so you’ll know when to stop.
Installation of Monster-Ram
68. Remove EGR Valve
69. Remove Throttle Body
The throttle will be stuck onto the gasket, so use a rubber mallet to help tap it free from the elbow.
70. Remove & Transfer MAP Sensor
71. Remove & Transfer Elbow Stud
72. Clean EGR Gasket Surface
Take care not to nick the surface. Do the same for the throttle body gasket mating surface.
73. Place New EGR Gaskets On Monster-Ram
74. Fasten EGR Bolts
Apply a small amount of medium strength
75. Align Throttle Body Gasket
76. Fasten Throttle Body to Monster-Ram
The 1/8” NPT ports shall only be used for installing sensors for measuring air temperature, pressure, or flow. Sensors installed to these ports shall have a fitting of 1/8” NPT and shall not be connected to the vehicle’s electronic control units. In addition, factory sensors that come equipped on the vehicle shall not be disconnected and shall not be relocated to the ports. The ports, when not used, shall be closed off with the supplied plugs.
77. Install Sensor Plugs
Inspect the threaded holes, and be sure there is no powder coat in the holes.
78. Install Rear Thermocouple Plug
79. Install MAP Sensor
Now is a good time to clean the sensor with some MAF/MAP cleaner spray.
80. Spray Gasket With Adhesive
81. Place Washers On The Hex Cap Screws, Then Apply Some Blue Threadlocker As You Install Them
82. Use a Stock Bolt to Hold Billet Plate in Place
83. Place Fuel Rail Standoffs
84. Release Bungee Cord. Place Fuel Rail & Studs in Place
85. Install Banjo Bolt & Washer
86. Tighten Fuel Rail
Torque Bolts to 18-20 ft/lbs
87. Tighten Fuel Lines to 30 ft/lbs
88. Tighten Fuel Supply Line Banjo Bolt Hand Tight & Fuel Feed Line To 30ft/lb
89. Connect Temp Sensor Extension Harness.
Be sure to lock the plug once connected.
90. Remove Middle Right Stud For Dipstick Tube
Slide Dipstick Bracket Over & Reinstall Stud
91. Push Engine Harness Cable Ties Back Onto Studs
92. Put Rubber Isolator Back Into Place
93. Run Rear PCV Hose Under Dipstick Tube
94. Connect Rear PCV Hose Back To Valve Cover
95. Connect Rear Flat Blue Injector Plug
96. Connect Rear White Plug
Be sure to slide the pink lock back into position.
97. Route Engine Harness Under Dipstick & Around Valve Cover
97a. Plug In 3 Remaining Plugs
98. Push Cable Ties Onto Studs
99. Reconnect Engine Harness Connector
100. Do Not Connect Front Blue Injector Plug Yet
101. Remove Rag From Boost Tube, Put Clamp Back On
102. Insert Monster Ram Into Boost Tube
103. Put Long Bolt Into Front Corner by Hand
This will help hold the Monster-Ram in place. Then do the same for the long bolt on the backside. Followed by the two smaller bolts.
104. Use Telescoping Magnet to Start Bolts in the Middle of the Monster-Ram
This is useful for the small bolt in the middle where it is hard to reach., and mandatory for the one that goes through the top coil heater hole. Be sure to use Medium strength thread locker.
Use Hex Key Extension to Tighten Bolt
Tighten All 6 Bolts 18-20 ft/lbs
Start with the bolt that’s inside the Monster-Ram, then work in a cross pattern to torque to spec.
105. Apply Sealant To Heater Coil
106. Tighten Coil Heater By Hand
Should be tight, but don’t over do it.
107. Install Dipstick Tube Bracket
108. Now Install Forward Flat Blue Injector Plug
Be sure it clicks.
109. Connect Forward PCV Hose to Valve Cover
This is a tight fit, but doable. Wiggle the rubber hose on the nipple a quarter inch, then use a pry tool as a lever to help slide it on.
110. Plug In MAP Sensor (Rear of Monster-Ram)
Secure the slide lock back into position.
111. Plug In Throttle Plug
Secure the slide lock back into position.
112. Tighten Boost Tube Clamp
113. Remove & Discard 12v Heater Cable P-Clamp
114. Apply Red Thread Locker To Coil Heater
Remove nut from the coil heater, apply a drop of red thread locker, then spin the nut back 2 or 3 threads from the bottom of the stud.
Bend 12V Cable around as shown over the stud.
12V cable should be sandwiched in-between both nuts, away from metal contract.
115. Tighten 12V Heater Nut
Be sure to use a wrench to hold the lower nut when tightening the top nut.
Failure to do this can cause the stud to break off, or cause the nuts to walk potentially touching the body of the truck.
116. Flat Washer Goes On Passenger Side of EGR Tube
117. Put Clamp Over Union & Hand Tighten
118. Conical Gasket Goes On Driver Side of EGR Tube
119. Tighten Driver Side Clamp
120. Tighten Passenger Side Clamp
121. Loosen Front Bolts on EGR for Cover
122. Install EGR Heat Shield and Tighten Bolts
123. Place Rear Heatshield Spacer & Screw
Use a drop of thread locker on the screw to prevent it from vibrating out.
124. Tighten Torx Head Screw
125. Install Throttle Heat Shield Bolt and Nuts
126. Connect EGR Temp Sensor
127. Connect EGR Extension & Harness
128. Reconnect Batteries
129. First Start May Take 1-2min of engine turnover.
This is normal. The fuel system, rail, and lines need to re-pressurize.
CARB EO Label
For smog check purposes, affix the CARB E.O. Label on a visible location under the hood. Banks recommends using the radiator shroud location.