The point of the Banks Boost Tube Upgrade Kit on the 2013-2016 GM LML is simple: give the charge-air system a larger, less restrictive path without creating sealing problems. On this truck, space is tight and the tube routing is not forgiving, especially on the passenger side. That is why fit-up, clamp orientation, and final alignment matter as much as tube size. We use larger boost tubes to improve flow between the stock turbo, intercooler, and throttle body, but the install has to be done correctly for that system to hold under boost. The silicone couplers need full engagement, the clamps need to be positioned where you can load them evenly, and the connections need to stay dry. Add lubricant and you increase the chance of a tube popping off when boost comes up. Done right, the result is a stronger, higher-flow charge-air path that fits the LML chassis and stays sealed when the truck is working.
This installation covers Banks High-Flow Boost Tubes for the stock GM 6.6-liter Duramax diesel. The kit replaces the factory charge-air tubes that connect the stock turbocharger to the stock intercooler and then route compressed air onward through the intake tract. The recap follows the installation sequence shown in the video, beginning with the required tools, then the included parts, and finally the driver-side and passenger-side tube installation procedures.
Banks recommends a 3/8-inch-drive ratchet, a 20-inch ratchet extension or several shorter extensions, inch and metric sockets, and both Phillips and flat-blade screwdrivers. These tools are used to reach clamps from above the engine bay and through the wheel well once the surrounding components are removed.
The kit shown includes a driver-side boost tube, a passenger-side boost tube, a turbo outlet hose, a 3.5-inch to 3.12-inch hump hose with a quick disconnect, a 3.5-inch to 3-inch hump-hose reducer, and a 3.5-inch throttle-body inlet hose. Clamp hardware consists of one 3-inch spring-loaded T-bolt clamp, two Murray 359 3.5-inch spring-loaded T-bolt clamps, and one Murray 387 T-bolt clamp.
Installation begins after removing the air cleaner box, the baffle, and the fender liners. The front wheels should also be removed. Taking off the wheels improves access to the fender liners and creates much better working room for routing and tightening the larger boost tubes through the wheel-well openings.
With those components out of the way, the stock boost tubes can be removed and the Banks tubes installed in their place. The video starts with the driver side before moving to the passenger side.
After the factory driver-side boost tube has been removed, the Banks driver-side tube is installed using the 3-inch to 3.5-inch hump hose. Two Murray 359 T-bolt clamps are placed on that hose and oriented opposite each other with the clamp hardware facing upward. The hose is first slid onto the intercooler connection.
The driver-side Banks boost tube is then fed upward through the same opening used by the stock tube and inserted into the silicone hose. This establishes the lower intercooler-side connection before the upper turbo-side connection is made.
To connect the driver-side tube to the turbo outlet, the turbo outlet hose is slid onto the boost tube. The video notes that there are multiple ways to approach this step, but recommends opening the two 3.5-inch T-bolt clamps and sliding them over the hump hose before final positioning. Once the tube is fully inserted, the clamp is tightened to about 5 foot-pounds, or 60 inch-pounds.
A long ratchet extension is then used from above the engine bay to reach down and tighten the clamps at the intercooler inlet. After that, the clamp nearest the installer is tightened from inside the wheel well. This combination of top-side and wheel-well access is part of the intended installation method for reaching the hardware cleanly.
The passenger side begins with removal of the stock boost tube. The ECU harness is disconnected first and moved aside. The sensor mounted in the boost tube is then removed. At the throttle-body connection, a flat-blade screwdriver is used to rotate the locking ring about a quarter turn counterclockwise, which releases the factory boost tube from the throttle body.
With the stock tube out, the silicone throttle-body hose is installed onto the throttle body with its two corresponding T-bolt clamps facing upward. At this stage, the Banks passenger-side boost tube is not yet inserted into that hose. The hump hose is then installed onto the intercooler outlet in preparation for fitting the larger replacement tube.
The passenger-side Banks boost tube is then maneuvered into place. The upper end is worked into the hose at the throttle body, but the clamps are intentionally left loose until the entire tube is aligned. The video emphasizes that these are substantially larger boost tubes designed to increase flow, so they occupy more space than the stock parts and may require some finesse to position correctly.
At the lower end of the passenger-side tube, near the intercooler-side hose, the installer may find it easier to seat the tube by using a dull pry tool and gradually working around the connection. The video specifically warns against using silicone lubricant to ease assembly. According to the installer, lubricant is the quickest way to cause the boost tubes to pop off under high boost, so the hoses should be assembled dry.
Once the lower passenger-side connection is fully seated, the final set of clamps can be installed and tightened. In the video, the mechanic is shown working upside down through the engine bay for camera visibility, but the stated recommendation is to perform this step through the wheel well, where access is easier.
After the bottom section of the passenger-side boost tube is tightened, attention returns to the throttle-body end so those clamps can be secured. The sensor is then reinstalled in the boost tube, with a caution not to overtighten it. The harness plugs are reconnected, and the wiring is secured with a zip tie either to the boost tube itself or to a nearby hose to keep it properly routed.
With both Banks boost tubes installed and all clamps and connections secured, the remaining vehicle components can be reassembled. The fender liners are reinstalled, the front wheels are put back on, and the truck is lowered.
At that point, the installation is complete. The video closes by noting that the truck is ready to be driven with the new Banks High-Flow Boost Tubes in place.