Servicing an air filter is simple if you do it correctly. Dry and oiled filters each have their place, but an oiled element only becomes a problem when it is over-oiled or cleaned the wrong way. The right process is to knock out loose debris, apply proper filter cleaner, rinse from the inside out with low-pressure water, and let the element dry naturally. No solvents, no detergents, no compressed shortcuts. For an oiled Banks Ram-Air Intake System filter, the key is using the correct amount of oil instead of guessing. That is why we built the re-oiling calculator around pleat depth, exposed pleat height, and pleat count. Once you know the amount, apply the oil from the outside of the filter, stay slightly conservative, and let the oil wick through the media before reinstalling. Done right, the filter loads evenly, traps dirt properly, and avoids the over-oiling mistakes that people blame for sensor contamination.
The video opens by explaining the two common choices offered with a cold air intake: a dry filter or an oiled filter. Dry filters are often seen as easier to maintain and more convenient to clean. Oiled filters, by contrast, are favored by many long-time users because they typically offer long service life, excellent dirt capture, and slightly better airflow. The difference is not simply cosmetic, such as one filter being red and another black; the filter media and maintenance process are meaningfully different.
Filter service intervals depend more on operating conditions than on a fixed mileage number. Some filters are obviously dirty on inspection, while others may still look usable after thousands of miles. Rather than relying only on a 5,000- or 10,000-mile rule, the recommendation is to inspect the filter whenever the vehicle is in for an oil change.
Environment matters. Vehicles driven on farms, ranches, or in areas with fine airborne dust will load the filter much faster than vehicles used in cleaner conditions. For those applications, Banks recommends using a pre-filter cover over the main filter. The pre-filter can be removed easily, washed separately, and reused, and it works with either an oiled or a dry filter.
Before washing the filter, the first step is to remove as much loose dirt as possible by gently tapping the filter on a hard surface. This helps shake debris out of the pleats. Dry filters are generally easier to clean in this stage because their pleats are spaced farther apart. Oiled filters often have tighter pleat spacing, which can make packed dirt harder to remove.
If necessary, a soft-bristle brush can be used to gently sweep debris away, but care is required. Aggressive brushing can push dirt deeper into the pleats instead of removing it. The goal is to dislodge contamination without forcing it farther into the filter media.
After loose debris is removed, the filter is cleaned with a K&N Recharger kit. The video notes that the oil included in the kit is specifically for oiled filters, but the cleaning solution itself can be used on both dry and oiled filters. The cleaner should be sprayed liberally on both the outside and inside of the filter and then allowed to soak for about 8 to 10 minutes. It should not be allowed to dry on the filter.
Several cleaning methods are specifically discouraged. Detergents, cleaning solvents, and high-pressure nozzles should not be used because they can damage the filter media and may shrink or harden the polyurethane end caps. Instead, the filter should be rinsed with a low-pressure water source from the inside outward. Rinsing from the inside out pushes trapped particles back out of the media, while rinsing from the outside in can drive debris deeper into the filter. The filter should be rinsed until the water runs clear, and the process can be repeated until the media appears free of grit and dirt.
Once the cleaning solution has been fully rinsed out, the filter must be dried completely before reuse. The recommended method is simple air drying, ideally in the sun. The video emphasizes that this process cannot be rushed. Using artificial heat, such as a hair dryer, can damage the filter.
Because drying can take a long time, especially if conditions are not ideal, one practical suggestion is to keep a second filter on hand. That allows one filter to remain in service while the other dries naturally and thoroughly. The key point is that the filter must be fully dry before any re-oiling step begins.
Many users are hesitant to service an oiled filter because they worry about applying too much or too little oil. The video argues that the process is straightforward when the oil quantity is calculated correctly. To support that, Banks provides a re-oiling calculator at bankspower.com/reoilcalculator.
The calculator uses three measurements: pleat depth, exposed pleat height, and pleat count. Pleat depth can be measured by inserting a piece of paper or a business card into a pleat, marking the depth from the outer surface to the inner surface, and then measuring that distance. Exposed pleat height is measured across the visible pleated section of the filter. In the example shown, the exposed pleat height is 9.75 inches. Pleat count is determined by choosing a reference point, such as the clip, and counting all pleats around the filter. In the demonstration, the filter has 60 pleats.
Using those values, the calculator determines that the example filter requires 4.88 ounces of oil, or about 138 grams. The K&N oil bottle conveniently includes ounce markings on the side, making it easier to dispense the correct amount. A glass measuring cup such as a Pyrex cup can also be used for more precise measurement.
When oiling the filter, the recommendation is to stay slightly conservative rather than over-oil it. If the target is 4.88 ounces, applying 4.6 or 4.7 ounces is considered acceptable, while too much oil should be avoided. The video explains that the filter media is forgiving and that the oil will wick through the material and distribute itself evenly over time.
Rather than trying to oil every pleat with extreme precision, the suggested method is to make a first pass around the outside of the filter and distribute the oil as evenly as possible. The amount applied should be checked against the bottle markings during the process so the total stays close to the calculated target. The oil begins wicking almost immediately, which helps even out the distribution.
A key instruction is to oil only from the outside of the filter. Oil should not be applied to the inside surface, because that can leave unwanted oil on the lid or downstream side of the intake assembly. Applied correctly, the oil will wick from the outside inward through the filter media.
After oil is applied, the filter should be left to sit so the oil can wick uniformly through all the pleats. The video states that within about half an hour the filter will already be substantially ready, but it later recommends allowing about 4 hours for a thoroughly homogeneous distribution across the media. Waiting longer, such as 6 hours or even 24 hours, is also acceptable.
To illustrate how wicking works, the demonstration includes a filter that is oiled only in a ring near the top. Over time, the oil spreads downward and across the pleats until the media is evenly saturated. The point of the demonstration is that even if the oil is not visually perfect at the moment of application, it will distribute itself through the material if the correct amount has been used and enough time is allowed.
The recap closes by directing viewers to Banks' re-oiling calculator, where they can determine the exact oil quantity needed for their specific filter dimensions.